Emerald Cut Lab Grown Engagement Rings

How an emerald cut is different

Most diamond shapes are brilliant cuts, built from many small triangular facets that throw sparkle in every direction. An emerald cut is a step cut. Its facets are long, flat and parallel, like stairs running down into the stone. Instead of scattered sparkle, you get broad flashes of light and dark that open and close as your hand moves. People often describe it as a hall of mirrors.

That open, clear look is the appeal. It is also the challenge. A step cut acts like a window, so you can see straight into the diamond.

Clarity matters more here

On a round, small inclusions hide among the sparkle. On an emerald cut, they sit in plain view under the large center table. For most people we suggest VS2 or better, and we always check the stone with a loupe and by eye before it goes on your tray. Some SI1 stones are clean to the eye if the inclusion sits near the edge, so it is worth looking rather than ruling them out on paper.

Color for an emerald cut

Step cuts show body color more than brilliant cuts. In white gold or platinum, F or G keeps the stone crisp and icy. H can look lovely in a warmer metal. If you love yellow gold, you have a little more room, because the metal reflects into the corners anyway.

Ratio and outline

A classic emerald cut has a length to width ratio of about 1.40 to 1.50. Around 1.30 feels more square and compact. Up to 1.60 or beyond gives a long, slender stone that suits a longer finger. The cut corners matter too. They should be even on all four sides, and they protect the stone, since a sharp corner would be easier to chip.

Check that the steps are evenly spaced and the center table is not too large. A big table can make the stone look flat and glassy, with less of that mirror effect. The best way to judge this is to see two or three stones next to each other.

How big it looks

An emerald cut is often a little deeper than an oval or a pear, so it can look slightly smaller for its carat weight. Its long outline still covers a lot of finger. If size on the hand matters most to you, compare it on the tray with an elongated cushion or a radiant of the same weight.

Settings that suit an emerald cut

Every setting on this page can be made with an emerald cut center. The ones that suit it best:

• A four prong solitaire with claw prongs on the corners, to keep the clean outline.
• A hidden halo, which adds a little sparkle under the stone without breaking the geometry.
• Three stone with tapered baguettes or trapezoid side stones, for an Art Deco look.

Emerald cuts look especially good in platinum, where the white metal frames the steps. A slim band keeps the attention on the stone.

Comparing stones at your viewing

Ask us to show you the stones under daylight-style light and under softer room light. Step cuts change character with the light more than brilliants do. Look for a clean center and steps that flash in a steady rhythm. Then hold the ring at arm's length and see if it feels calm or busy to you.

Our 4Cs guide explains clarity and color grades in more detail, and the shapes guide puts the emerald cut next to the others. To have stones waiting, use the loose diamond request, then book a viewing at Suite 805 or call (732) 581-7932.